Features

Chasing Winter:

Shred all summer long in Argentina

words by Sara Tollestrup
photos by Robin Van Gyn

You want to go snowboarding, but it's almost summer and your local mountain is closed. Even if you live in Whistler, closures due to the peak-to-peak gondola construction means that you've been doing the same park lap every day for two months. Plus, you're riding that one lap with 180 other shreds-turned-park robots. So, how are you going to survive until December without a single pow turn? You're not. You're going to do what the pros do and get yourself to the Southern Hemisphere, stat. Now you're saying to yourself "Great idea, but unlike the pros I don't have a travel budget and, poor me, even if I did have the cash I wouldn't have anyone to go with."
Liar!

The ladies over at MGT (More Good Times) Snowboarding Camps are hooking up an all-girls snowboard camp in Bariloche, Argentina from Aug. 8-24. The camp includes transportation within Argentina, lift tickets, accommodations, two meals a day, professional coaching from the likes of Robin Van Gyn and Leanne Pelosi, off snow activities, supervision, a Buenos Aires city tour, daily Spanish lessons, and more. Let them do all the hard work and planning; all you have to do is show up to snowboard. For more details and registration, hit up MGT's website.

Whether you are joining the MGT crew, or you're feeling adventurous enough to go on your own, here are some things you should know before you take off.

Where: San Carlos de Bariloche is in the western area of the Province of Rio Negro in Argentina. It’s located on the foothills of the Andes and surrounded by beautiful lakes. You know the outdoor brand, Patagonia? Well it's named after the Patagonia Mountains that you will be riding. Bariloche is 1,640 kilometers southwest of the capital city, Buenos Aires.

What: Snowboarding, of course! Mount Catedral is one of the most important resorts in the country and is located just 19 kilometers outside of the city of Bariloche. Catedral has two gondolas, 16 chairs, 1,047 meters of vertical drop, a halfpipe and a terrain park. Don't forget that you’re surrounded by the Andes, the largest exposed mountain range in the world, so you aren't limited to one resort. North of Catedral there are four other resorts: Cerro Bayo, Chapelco, Batia Mahuida and Caviahue. You'll be flying into Buenos Aires so take advantage of the shopping, some of the best in the world. The sickest neighbourhoods for shopping in the capital are Recoleta, San Telmo and Palermo. If art and architecture are more your style, check out the Basilica de Santo Domingo and the Centro Cultural Recoleta. Whether in Buenos Aires or Bariloche, don't forget about the discos. The nightlife in South America should be called 'morning life,' since the partying lasts well into the early hours of dawn.

When: Since the ultimate goal is to shred, the best time to go is from Jun. 15 to Oct. 10. If possible, try not to plan your trip around national holidays because the resorts and hotels will be completo (meaning full in Spanish). Argentina's national holidays in the winter are Jun. 20, Jul. 9 and Aug. 17.

Why: The exchange rate is sweet for us Canucks. A Canadian dollar is about $3.27 Argentine Pesos. Plus, you can experience full winter conditions during our summer season.

How: Most of the major airlines (Delta, AC, LAN, Continental, etc.) offer daily flights to Buenos Aires (EZE). Remember, your flight will be the most expensive part of the trip. Flights from Vancouver (YVR) and other West Coast airports are going to set you back $1,300+, so you'll likely be flying through Toronto. Flights from Toronto (YYZ) and other East Coast airports will be $1,180+ and are more likely to be direct. Once you land in the capital of Argentina you'll have to travel by rental car, bus or train to Bariloche. Bariloche also has it's own little airport if you have the money to fly. There is only a four-hour time difference between Vancouver and Buenos Aires, which seriously helps when it comes to jet lag.

Places to Sleep: There are several hostels in the area that cost approximately $11/night. Check out hostel 41 Below and Bariloche Hostel. If you're not willing to live hostel-style there are several hotels to choose from as well. If you're feeling rich check out Hotel Carlos V, Patagonia, which is $148+/night.

Places to Eat: La Alpina, La Esquina, Cubico and Los Tehuelches. These spots are the tops, but there are tons of other cafes, pizzerias, restaurants and coffee shops all over the place, so don't stress about finding tasty local food. Argentines eat a lot of meat, so vegetarians beware. Don't forget to dive into some ice cream; in Spanish it's called helado. If you're a responsible adult you must sip some vino. Try the local wine or play it safe with pretty well anything from the Mendoza region. Be courteous with a 10 per cent tip—the norm in restaurants.

Culture: Check out Museo de la Patagonia, Bariloche's museum. The hours are a little strange (siesta hours still apply in much of Latin America). It's open Monday and Saturday mornings, Tuesday to Friday (closed for lunch) and closed on Sundays.

What to pack: Everything that you normally need for snowboarding. The average temperature ranges from -2 C to 12 C. Sunscreen and a bandana to protect your face from a gnarly goggle tan are essential. The weather tends to change day-in and day-out so be prepared for everything. Argentine pesos come in handy; it will be hard to exchange Canadian currency outside of Buenos Aires, so you're better off doing it before you leave. Credit cards are always good since most banks offer fraud protection on them, but be sure to tell your bank you're traveling to South America. Banks often cancel credit cards when, suddenly, there are charges from Buenos Aires' boutiques and Bariloche's bars and they hadn't been informed that their customer was in another country. Get travel insurance and make a photocopy of your passport just in case. If you plan on charging your iPod or camera, grab an electrical plug converter (Mountain Equipment Co-op carries them). Don't pack the night before or the morning of your flight—you will regret it.

Lift tickets: They cost around $75/day. Many of the resorts have two-day, three-day and weekly passes, but they're generally not much cheaper.

Of Interest (a.k.a. so you don't sound like a clueless tourist): The country's official language is Spanish, so learn some Spanish before you go. Guides, hotel staff, and so on often can speak some English, but why expect them to speak your language? You don't speak Japanese to Japanese tourists, do you? The current President is a woman, Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner; she was elected in December of 2007. Argentina is the second biggest country in South America and the eighth biggest country in the world. The population of greater Buenos Aires is around 13 million compared to greater Toronto's population of 8.1 million. It is strongly influenced by Europe due to a large number of immigrants from the continent and the fact that it was a colony of Spain until 1816. The nation is 92 per cent Roman Catholic.

What else: Have fun and don't forget to take lots of pictures so you can make all of your friends back in snow-less Canada jealous!